PERFORMATIVITAS GENDER DALAM FASHION ANDROGINI: NEGOSIASI IDENTITAS MAHASISWA DI KOTA MALANG
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.15408/harkat.v22i1.52873Keywords:
androgynous fashion, gender identity negotiation, gender performativity, phenomenology, self-expression, ekspresi diri, fashion androgini, fenomenologi, negosiasi identitas gender, performativitas genderAbstract
Abstract. Androgynous fashion is increasingly visible among university students in Malang City and offers a useful setting for examining how clothing is used to negotiate gendered expectations. This phenomenological study explores how twelve students from Universitas Negeri Malang and Universitas Brawijaya experience and interpret androgynous fashion in everyday life. Participants were selected purposively, and data were collected through in-depth interviews, participant observation, and visual documentation until no substantively new themes emerged. The data were analyzed using Interpretative Phenomenological Analysis. The findings show that androgynous fashion is experienced primarily as a means of bodily comfort, self-expression, and negotiation of social expectations. Campus settings and non-domestic public spaces are generally perceived as more permissive than family settings, where participants often moderate visible androgynous elements in response to normative pressure. Read through Butler’s theory of gender performativity, these practices can be interpreted as everyday negotiations that subtly interrupt binary gender expectations rather than as a formal or uniform form of resistance. The findings are limited to the experiences of the twelve participants and are not intended to represent university students in Indonesia as a whole.
Abstrak. Fashion androgini semakin terlihat di kalangan mahasiswa Kota Malang dan menjadi konteks penting untuk memahami bagaimana busana digunakan dalam menegosiasikan ekspektasi gender. Penelitian fenomenologi ini mengkaji pengalaman dan pemaknaan dua belas mahasiswa Universitas Negeri Malang dan Universitas Brawijaya terhadap fashion androgini dalam kehidupan sehari-hari. Partisipan dipilih secara purposif, sedangkan data dikumpulkan melalui wawancara mendalam, observasi partisipatif, dan dokumentasi visual hingga tidak ditemukan tema substantif baru. Data dianalisis menggunakan Interpretative Phenomenological Analysis. Hasil penelitian menunjukkan bahwa fashion androgini terutama dimaknai sebagai sarana kenyamanan tubuh, ekspresi diri, dan negosiasi terhadap ekspektasi sosial. Lingkungan kampus dan ruang publik non-domestik umumnya dipersepsikan lebih permisif dibandingkan ranah keluarga, tempat partisipan kerap mengurangi unsur androgini yang tampak ketika menghadapi tekanan normatif. Dibaca melalui teori performativitas gender Butler, praktik tersebut dapat dipahami sebagai negosiasi keseharian yang secara subtil menginterupsi ekspektasi gender biner, bukan sebagai bentuk resistensi yang formal atau seragam. Temuan ini terbatas pada pengalaman dua belas partisipan dan tidak dimaksudkan untuk mewakili seluruh mahasiswa di Indonesia.
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